Making your own gaming PC is undoubtedly the best technology investment you can make. A good gaming rig outlasts a smartphone, has more power than a game console and is far more adaptable than even the most powerful streaming box.
A gaming PC is the ideal tool for the job, whether you’re drafting up documents, editing videos, or tweaking the settings on the latest and greatest games. One of these systems may survive five years with regular maintenance and ten years with regular improvements.
Still, assembling a PC can be a difficult task, especially for beginners. There are other excellent guides available, particularly from our sites PC Gamer and Tom’s Hardware.
If you’re new to PC construction, don’t worry; we’ll go over everything from component descriptions and what they do in a PC to what parts you’ll need for your build. The process may appear intimidating throughout, but you can rest confident that this how-to article will guide you the entire way.
Take your time, admire the construction, and begin playing games.
Building a Gaming PC Requires the Following Components:
- CPU – The central processing unit executes the instructions that comprise a computer program. This is the heart of your computer.
- GPU – The graphical processing unit renders visuals and is the most crucial component of a gaming computer.
- PSU – The power supply unit is the component that powers your system.
- MOTHERBOARD (MOBO) – The MOBO connects the hardware components of your computer.
- STORAGE – Your SSD/HDD stores your operating system, programs, games, and media files.
- RAM – Random access memory is temporary data that the PC is now using.
- PC CASE – Also known as a computer chassis, tower, or enclosure, a computer case houses your whole build while also providing airflow.
- COOLING SYSTEM- The cooling system keeps the CPU from overheating.
How to Build a Gaming Pc – Step by Step Assembly
Before you begin, make sure you’ve organized your workspace as described earlier. This will make it easier to find everything you need exactly when you need it. Once you’ve done that, wash and dry your hands as it is time to install all your components and create your new PC build. You are going to need to set aside approximately 1-2 hours to complete the PC build.
Step 1: Build A Case
Remove the side panels to reveal the internal frame of the case once it has been removed from the box, and make careful to remove all packaging. Inside, you’ll see a tiny box or bag of screws; they will be needed later in the installation process, so lay them away.
Untie the cables from the back of the case so that they are loose and ready to go once the motherboard is installed. Finally, depending on the form factor of your motherboard, screw in the appropriate number of standoff screws.
Now, place the computer case to the side.
Step 2: Install Fans
If you are replacing case fans with other options, you must first remove the fans from your case. To access the fans on the front of your case, you may need to remove the front panel. Removing the front panel can be difficult and often requires quite a bit of force.
You will see a small arrow indicating the direction of the airflow on the fan you are installing. Line up the arrow depending on whether you want a push or pull configuration and secure it with the screws that come with the fan.
When it comes to fan wiring, the rear fan will have a fan header on the motherboard beside it. Motherboards typically have 3-5 fan headers strewn throughout, so consult your handbook if you can’t find these.
Step 3: Install the Processor (CPU)
Place the motherboard in your workplace after removing it from its packing. Locate the CPU socket (which is normally around the top-middle of the board) and pull the lever up until it is upright. When the lever on both AMD and Intel boards is upright, the CPU is ready to be installed.
A small arrow will appear in the corner of your AMD or Intel CPU and motherboard. This arrow represents the location of your CPU, and you should align these arrows.
Insert the CPU into the socket, giving it a moderate nudge if it doesn’t fit. Before lowering the lever, be sure the CPU is completely flush. There will be a protective piece of plastic over the socket and a metal clasp on Intel-compatible motherboards; clip this back under the bolt. The lever will feel tense at first, but this is normal, and the plastic shield will pop off during installation.
Step 4: Install the Memory (RAM)
If you want to fill up the RAM slots on your motherboard, line up the memory stick (it only goes in one way) and push until you hear a click. Before you do this, you may need to snap back the plastic parts at the ends of each slot. If you aren’t planning to use all of those RAM slots (which is fairly typical), read your motherboard’s user manual to see which slots your RAM goes into.
Step 5: Install the CPU Cooler
Whether you’ve chosen an AIO liquid cooler or an air cooler, the brackets and installation procedures will change. Bring out the cooler handbook to make the following step much easy.
Some coolers require a mounting bracket, which typically inserts into the motherboard from the back. Some motherboards come with the backplate already fitted, but for the most part, you will need to attach it.
Check to determine if the cooler’s base has thermal paste pre-applied once the bracket has been installed/replaced and the other tiny pieces have been attached (thin grey layer of paste).
Thermal paste is critical, therefore if you don’t see it on the base of your cooler, you’ll have to apply your own. Check out our simple step-by-step guide for applying thermal paste.
Assuming you’ve applied thermal paste, position your cooler on top of the CPU, aligning the screw holes. The stock coolers from AMD and Intel are among the easiest to install, but if you use an aftermarket cooler, make sure to tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern.
Step 6: Install the Motherboard (MOBO)
Before screwing your motherboard into the case, clip the I/O shield into the casing’s cutout at the back.
Now that the I/O shield is in place, screw in the motherboard. Place the case on its side and the motherboard on top of the standoffs, allowing the I/O connectors to protrude through the I/O shield. Screw the board into place using the screws recommended in your case manual once it has been aligned.
Don’t bother about connecting your front panel and power supply wires just yet; we’ll handle it later.
Step 7: Install Storage (SSD/HDD)
If you only purchased an M.2 storage device, you can skip this step.
Examine your case for the ideal place to mount your SSD/HDD. Some cases have a variety of mounting options available, often inside immediately behind the front panel or at the rear panel. It is unimportant where you mount your discs, but keep cable management in mind since you want your PC construction to look as clean as possible.
Some cases include “tool-free” installation, which means your drive should simply clip into the drive tray. Other cases will normally require you to screw the storage device into place.
Remove the tray and align your storage device. You should position the device such that the SATA connectors face the back panel, as this is where you want your cables to run. Once aligned, screw into place and put the tray back into the drive bay. In certain circumstances, the drives utilize the same screws as the motherboard but always consult the care instructions.
Once in place, connect the SATA cable that came with the motherboard box to your storage device and feed it through the back and into the motherboard. Consult the motherboard user manual to connect this to the proper SATA port, but make sure the boot device is plugged into SATA1.
Step 7.1: Install the M.2 SSD
Locate the little, horizontal M.2 slot on your motherboard. If the screw is already in the board, remove it and slip the M.2 into position. As you screw it down, the storage device will flip up slightly at a 35-degree angle. To secure the device, push the SSD down and tighten the little screw.
Step 8: Install the Graphics Card (GPU)
Locate your motherboard’s PCIe x16 slot (usually the one at the top, but consult your motherboard manual). Which slot you use depends on what else is inside, but in general, the top is the one you use, leaving space near the bottom.
Remove any plastic from the graphics card before installing the GPU. Remove the back metal covers for the expansion slots so you can connect your DisplayPort or HDMI cable. These metal covers are screwed into mid-high-end cases, and some cheap cases need you to snap them out.
Now that there is enough room for the GPU, press down on the retention clip on your motherboard’s PCIe slot and slide the GPU in until you hear a click.
Screw it in tightly once it’s locked into place.
Step 9: Connect The Power Supply (PSU)
If you have a semi- or fully-modular power supply, figure out what cables you’ll need for your setup and plug them in. To make this procedure easier, the PSU will normally contain labels on everything.
After you’ve plugged in the cables, feed them through so your power supply is flush with the chassis. Make sure the PSU fan is oriented downward if there is ventilation at the bottom or upward if there is no ventilation.
The appropriate screws (4X) will be sent with the PSU and your case; simply put these into place.
Step 10: Connect the Cables to the Front Panel
First, we’ll connect the front panel of your case to the motherboard. This is the most difficult element of the build, but only because it is so fiddly. Before you begin, ensure that your front panel cables have been routed to the back.
Consult your motherboard’s manual to determine the location of your front I/O cables. When you’ve found it, pass the cables through the nearest cutout hole. Follow the diagram’s instructions and connect the cables as shown.
After you’ve connected all of your front panel wires (PWR L.E.D, HDD L.E.D, PWR Switch, Reset Switch, USB, USB 3.0, HD Audio), it’s time to connect your power supply cables.
Step 11: Let There Be Power
After you’ve installed the PSU, all of your cables should be hanging out the back. It is now time to feed the various cables back through the cutout holes in the front of the casing.
If you need help figuring out where to plug the various cables, consult your motherboard’s instructions.
This is where your CPU power connector will go if your case has a cutout at your back I/O shield at the top. Plug the cable through this hole and into the port on your motherboard, pushing the excess out the rear after you hear the click.
Now that the CPU is powered, feed the huge 24-pin power wire through the hole closest to its port. Wait for the click, then pull the excess wire length through the rear once more.
Your graphics card requires electricity as well, so grab your PCIe power line and feed it through the nearest cutout. Connect this to your GPU and pull the excess out of the back panel.
Finally, unless you have an M.2, your storage devices will require electricity. Plug the SATA power cable into the back of your storage device and pull the excess out.
Step 12: Setup the Operating System (OS)
Once the PC has been built and successfully booted into BIOS, it is time to install your operating system. If you purchased Windows on a flash drive or downloaded the Windows installation, you will need the product key.
Insert your flash drive, boot the computer, and enter the BIOS. Once in the BIOS, you may need to modify the boot priority such that your PC boots from the USB disc that contains Windows.
After changing the boot order or priority, save your changes and leave. When you restart your computer, you should see the Windows installation guide.
Final Words
As you can see, constructing your own gaming PC is a rewarding but time-consuming process. But it’s well worth it, especially if you’re a committed gamer. Not only will you save money by not buying a pre-built PC, but you’ll also be able to configure it whatever you want, allowing you to enjoy hours of world-class gaming.